Healthy Skin

Red light therapy – experts reveal what you need to know about this skincare treatment

Red light therapy is no new fad but, with so many options available – from in-salon treatments to at-home devices – it can be challenging to know where best to invest our money.

Here, we chat to the experts who explain more about this non-invasive treatment and how to incorporate it into our beauty routine.

What is red light therapy and how does it work?

“Red light therapy is a non-invasive treatment that uses specific wavelengths of light,” says Sara Rodrigues, Non-Surgical Department Manager at 111 Harley St. “Penetrating the skin, they help cells produce more energy, stimulating cellular activity.”

Light is delivered to the skin using specialised LED bulbs. These emit a distinct and narrow spectrum of light that works to stimulate collagen production, cell renewal and circulation. With red light masks, we can expect to see fine lines smoothed and improvements in skin tone and texture.

“It also enhances the healing of acne scars and other skin blemishes through anti-inflammatory effects,” adds Sara. “It’s great for post-surgery or conditions like rosacea.”

Full-body lighting panels are also becoming increasingly popular, touting benefits such as increased blood flow to muscles, reduced fatigue and inflammation. Initial findings suggest these panels may also be helpful for managing chronic pain.

How long will it take to see results?

Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to red light therapy. “You’ll see results after one treatment – the skin looks brighter and more rejuvenated, but it’s more of an accumulative process”, says Lauren Evans, CACI Training and Development Officer shares.

Sara agrees. “The results vary by individual, but generally, it takes four to six weeks of consistent use, two to three times per week, to see noticeable improvements,” she says. “Results typically last for several months but require ongoing treatment for maintenance.”

While at-home devices are growing in popularity, salon treatments can help to amplify results too.

“We combine red light therapy with microcurrent electrical stimulation”, says Lauren. “We specifically focus on the jowl area with both continuous and pulsed red light.

“Studies show that cells begin to resist prolonged continuous wave red light therapy. Pulsed light allows further continued stimulation without cellular resistance. Together with the lowest frequency of microcurrent, it works on the deeper tissue layers to help strengthen the facial muscles.”

How to use red light therapy safely

Sara explains that red light therapy is generally considered very safe, with minimal risk of side effects when used properly.

“The most beneficial wavelengths for skincare are in the 600-650 nm (red light) and 800-850 nm (near-infrared light (NIR)) ranges”, she says.

LED bulbs don’t emit UV either, eliminating the risk of tanning or skin damage.

And what about our eyes?

“We recommend that therapists wear anti-glare glasses while performing the treatment and we recommend covering the clients’ eyes when working around the eye area,” says Lauren.

For at-home devices, be sure to check the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding eye safety, and if in doubt, get some goggles.

How best can we use red light therapy in our skincare routine?

Consistency is key when it comes to getting the most out of red light therapy, says Sara.

“Typically, two to three times a week for 10 to 30 minutes per session is recommended for at-home devices and yes, over-exposure can lead to skin irritation,” she says. “The time of day matters less than consistency, but many people prefer evening treatments since red light therapy can enhance repair during sleep.”

When it comes to our skincare ingredients, red light therapy is reassuringly easy to combine, too.

“Peptides can enhance collagen production and work synergistically with red light therapy,” says Sara. “There are no direct contraindications with ingredients like vitamin A, or hydroxy acids, however, with increased cell turnover, in high concentrations, these ingredients might heighten skin sensitivity.”

Our pick of the best red light devices

CurrentBody LED Light Therapy Face Mask: Series 2, £399

Their newly redesigned ‘liquid silicone’ face-cupping shape is expertly contoured for maximum coverage and comfort, including the chin area.

Omnilux Contour Neck & Décolleté, £350.90

This adaptive shape can be worn across the collarbones and lower chest, or higher to enclose the neck.

TheraBody TheraFace PRO, £375

Enjoy multiple treatments in one handy device. Reduce tension with percussive therapy tailored for the facial muscles, use as a cleansing tool, or microcurrent device, or add optional hot and cool attachments to improve skin health with a multi-faceted approach.