Healthy Skin

Polynucleotides: the future of midlife skincare?

Polynucleotides – injectables that can help to regenerate our skin from the inside out – are causing something of a buzz in the beauty industry.

“Polynucleotides tell your skin to be stronger, healthier and younger,” explains Dr Thivos Sokratous, a medical doctor at Ouronyx. “The treatment changes the skin’s behaviour, which is different from just adding hyaluronic acid or dermal filler for volume. It’s injectable skincare.”

“Polynucleotides penetrate deeper into the dermis,” adds Alex Henderson, owner of Ciao Bella Aesthetics. “They promote cellular repair and regeneration at a level that topical treatments can’t reach.”

Interesting stuff indeed. But is it too good to be true? Here, makeup artist and beauty expert, Naomi Lake, investigates what polynucleotides mean for the future of midlife beauty – and reveals what happened when she went for a treatment.

First things first – what are polynucleotides?

“Polynucleotides are chains of nucleotides that form the backbone of RNA and DNA,” says Alex. “They are universal molecules found in all living organisms, including plants. At the moment, many treatments are derived from animal sources.”

A brief whistle-stop tour of our biology – DNA provides the instruction manual for everything our cells do. RNA then translates this manual and helps to create the proteins needed for each cell’s function.

“We give nucleotides, DNA fragments, to the skin as building blocks for RNA,” says Thivos.

Polynucleotides essentially encourage gene expression. Treatments can be used across the face and neck to encourage the production of collagen, helping to promote a more youthful complexion.

“They give a long-lasting improvement in skin elasticity and firmness, compared to the limited effects of topicals,” says Alex.

How do polynucleotides benefit midlife skin?

As we know, menopause can bring a number of changes in our body, including to our skin.

“Hormonal fluctuations can lead to accelerated skin ageing, dryness, sensitivity and a loss of elasticity,” explains Alex. “Polynucleotides, however, offer a multi-faceted approach. They address these concerns on a deeper level than topical treatments, making them ideal to restore and maintain healthy skin.

“If you notice increased skin sensitivity or inflammation, chronic dehydration, a loss of firmness or persistent texture issues that aren’t responding to your usual routine, polynucleotides may offer deeper, more targeted, durable results.”

Why choose polynucleotides over non-invasive treatments?

Opting for an injectable can feel daunting, especially with so many options in skincare to choose from. But how does it compare to things like facials or red light therapy?

“It depends on the desired results and level of intervention someone is comfortable with,” says Alex. “While [non-invasive treatments are] effective for surface-level rejuvenation and stimulating circulation, they don’t provide the same degree of skin regeneration.

“Polynucleotides address the root causes of skin ageing more effectively by working on a cellular level, for more dramatic anti-ageing effects.”

What happened when I tried polynucleotides

Following a detailed 3D scan of my face at the Ouronyx Clinic, Thivos and I decide to target the fine lines around my eyes and underlying rosacea on my cheeks, as well as a general loss of skin firmness.

“We inject superficially, usually with a bit of numbing cream beforehand so it’s more comfortable, as the gel can sting due to its acidity,” says Thivos.

Whilst a touch uncomfortable, this only lasts a moment or two across my cheekbones.

“Some studies show that when polynucleotides are used for the eye area, they actually improve the skin across the entire mid-cheek and perioral areas by spreading through your lymphatic system,” explains Thivos.

Afterwards, he presses gently on the area to disperse the product, giving me a smooth final result.

“It’s an injectable product in a gel carrier form, so it does take time to break down,” Thivos says. “The treatment can leave nodules under the skin after treatment for up to a couple of days, depending on the area.”

When to expect results

As Alex reveals, the treatment gets to work right away, with visible results showing in as little as two to four weeks.

“This includes better hydration, an improvement in skin texture and reduced sensitivity or redness,” she says. “More significant changes, such as improved skin firmness, reduction in fine lines and enhanced elasticity, become visible after six to eight weeks. This can last anywhere from six to 12 months.”

Overall, a series of three to four treatments, around four weeks apart is recommended, with maintenance treatments every six to 12 months.

“There’s a biological limit to how much can be achieved in a single session,” explains Thivos. “With a finite number of receptors, administering higher doses won’t yield additional benefits. Intervals allow the skin sufficient time to produce collagen consistently and improve quality.”

The effects of the first treatment alone are quite astounding. I notice a marked difference in the overall daily comfort of my skin, especially in the cheek and nose area. The fine lines around my eyes are noticeably diminished too, and I begin reaching for lighter-coverage foundations to reflect my happier skin.

Would I recommend it? I honestly see this as a regular in my routine as a support for healthy and happy skin in a way my skincare doesn’t quite reach.