Travel
The Yorkshire spa hotel reconnecting guests with nature: “It felt like hibernation”
Travel writer Hayley Hamilton shares her review of Middlethorpe Hall and Spa — an immersive sanctuary that blends the healing rhythms of nature with the stillness of a past era.
When you first set eyes on Middlethorpe Hall, you wonder whether you’ve travelled back in time. A perfect ‘William and Mary’ country house, this 18th Century estate in York and its sister sites Hartwell House and Bodysgallen Hall make up three historic properties brought under National Trust management in 2008. Authentically restored, the site offers a serene heritage escape set in 20 acres of award-winning grounds.
With a locally sourced menu shaped by the seasons, a restorative spa and holistic approach to wellbeing, Middlethorpe invites guests to find serenity in the gentle cycles of nature and embrace the slower pace of a distant time.
Stepping back into a world of calm
Within seconds of arriving at Middlethorpe Hall and Spa we are greeted by the general manager, who collects our bags and beckons us up the steps of the North facade. The front doors open and we are drawn into another world: of stone-flagged floors and sash windows, panelled interiors and a roaring fire. Thanks to the National Trust’s commitment to preservation, this heritage home is truly a portal to the past.
The scent of lilies floats in the air and I gaze at my surroundings. Even indoors I feel surrounded by nature, from the ornate bouquets in the entrance hall and earthy tones of the decor to the botanical patterns of the curtains.
After a swift check-in, we are treated to an orientation tour, and we take in the unique features in the drawing room, dining room and library. Antique books and golden pineapples, portraits on walls and a sleeping cat — the details seem to multiply with every second. As we journey through spaces frozen in time, I feel the peaceful aura of the site wash over me and the fast-paced pressures of the modern world start to recede.
At the top of the carved oak staircase we find our room, and inside a gorgeous four-poster bed, wall-length windows and views of the grounds. Helpful modern amenities are subtly placed, and don’t detract from the historical ambiance. In the bathroom I spy luxurious details — fluffy towels on a heated rail, Penhaligon’s toiletries and a deep, relaxing bathtub.
A taste of the seasons with mindful dining
Fine dining at Middlethorpe is truly something to savour, and another opportunity to slow down and connect with the present moment. Our experience starts in the drawing room, where our knowledgeable host talks us through the wine list, tasting menu and set menu. He takes note of our choices and discusses the ingredients and their journey to the plate. A few rooms away, his team then carefully sets our table according to our selected courses.
“The inspiration for my menus starts with the seasons, it’s very important to get produce when it’s at its best.” Ashley Binder, Head Chef
The first thing I notice when we walk into the candlelit dining room is the quiet. The atmosphere feels intimate, with few tables and only the soft crackles of an open fireplace or distant clinks of chinaware to be heard. The lack of stimuli is refreshing — no blaring music, loud voices or brash lights. As someone with a busy mind who finds herself easily distracted, this is a welcome relief, and it enables me to focus my attention more fully on the dining experience itself.
Seasonal eats
In the courses that follow, we are thoroughly spoiled. Up first is a delicious salmon starter topped with dressed crab and bathed in langoustine bouillabaisse, followed by honey-sweet duck breast with pickled plums, five spice and sea beet. The fillet steak with cep mushrooms, baby leeks and bordelaise sauce, paired beautifully with a Chilean shiraz is simply extraordinary, while the final course — a sharp fig parfait with meringue, jellied dice and cassis cream — is the perfect palette cleanser.
Speaking with Head Chef Ashley Binder, Middlethorphe’s commitment to sustainability and high quality food is clear. Menus are designed along with the seasons’ shifting tides, and draw heavily on the grounds’ produce. Herbs, vegetables and fruits are grown on-site, while meats and shellfish are sourced from high-grade local suppliers. Guests wanting to balance indulgence with health-conscious living, or who have dietary requirements can also order from an alternative spa menu or request alterations to the dishes.
Bringing nature indoors with Forest Therapy
The following afternoon (after a delicious afternoon tea fit for royalty) I pay a visit to the spa. Set in a pair of Edwardian cottages a short walk away, the spa features a swimming pool, spa bath, steam room, sauna, gymnasium, club room and treatment rooms.
What impresses me the most about the treatment offering is the multidisciplinary approach to wellbeing and the deep knowledge of the team. In addition to holistic practices like reiki and reflexology, there are also treatments designed for people experiencing trauma, congestion, immunity problems, stress, and any stage of cancer. Many of these therapies intentionally fuse eastern and western approaches, combining techniques like Ayurvedic massage, pressure point focus, guided breathing, mask applications and cleanses to reconnect body and mind.
Therapy inspired by nature
As with all experiences at Middlethorpe Hall, the influence of nature is very much present. Natural scent blends are integrated into many of the treatments, like the Yorkshire Rose Garden Ritual, inspired by the roses and peonies in Middlethorpe’s gardens, and the Forest Therapy Treatment, which I opt to have. Guests are also encouraged to walk in the grounds before or after their appointment, to deepen their connection to the environment.
“The Forest Therapy uses a blend of essential oils to make clients feel like they’re in the forest. It isn’t like any other treatments they may have had before.” Lisa Heptinstall, Spa Manager
Developed by Aromatherapy Associates, the Forest Therapy Treatment is a multi-step ritual. It calls upon the four elements to bring the outdoors in and restore the senses from the pollution of modern life.
We start with air and water, with guided box breathing and inhalation of a water-based infusion of cypress, ho wood and pink pepper — the scent of autumn itself. The guided breathing activates the parasympathetic nervous system, enabling me to achieve even deeper relaxation during the massage that follows.
After, we move onto earth and fire. We start with a hot stone placement, and then my hands and feet are cleansed with heated mitts and masked in hot clay. Finally, my therapist dims the lights and covers me with a body wrap. This stage of the treatment feels like a kind of hibernation. The detoxing clay on my palms and soles gives a sense of grounding.
Finding sanctuary in Middlethorpe’s gardens
Following my Forest Therapy Treatment I go for a walk in the grounds, which are bathed in the soft light of golden hour. The gardens are immaculately kept and are a defining feature of the visit. Alongside the abundant fruit and vegetable patches Middlethorpe is also home to an impressive variety of trees, including a deodar cedar, dawn redwoods and a one-hundred-year-old northern red oak.
“The best thing is to walk, take your time and take it all in.” Andrew Leighton, Head Gardener
While exploring I practise mindfulness, stopping to smell flowers and listen to the shuffling of leaves. As with the rest of the site, the grounds are a place where history and nature coalesce, from the ha-ha on the south lawn to the resident roe deer. It’s also a testament to Middlethorpe’s tireless commitment to conservation of both natural and cultural heritage. With all profits going to the National Trust charity, the site functions as not just a retreat into natural and past spaces, but as the protector of those spaces too.
Plan your visit
A stone’s throw from York racecourse, Middlethorpe Hall & Spa is easily reached by connections into York city centre. If you’re driving, it’s a perfect base for trail routes in the Yorkshire Moors or Yorkshire Dales. There is also generous parking on-site, including electric charging access. Four poster bedroom tariff is £579 per night.
Words: Hayley Hamilton
