The science around sunscreen is shifting. As consultant dermatologist and leading skin cancer specialist Dr Veronique Bataille argues, slathering on SPF 50 from head to toe all year round isn’t necessarily the answer, and may even do more harm than good. But, when used wisely, sunscreen can be a useful ally against sunburn at the peak of the day, and against the sunspots and accelerated skin ageing that can come with too much, badly timed UV.
The tricky part is knowing which sunscreen to reach for. There are so many types and factors on the market that it’s genuinely hard to know which are best – so, before the recommendations, let’s dig into what the words on the label actually mean.
Mineral vs chemical sunscreen: which is better?
The first thing worth understanding is the difference between the two kinds of sunscreen:
Mineral sunscreens: (also called physical or inorganic) use natural minerals such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to physically block and scatter UV rays. They start working from the moment they’re applied. They can sometimes leave a white cast, however, especially on deeper skin tones.
Chemical sunscreens: (also called synthetic, and confusingly sometimes ‘organic’ – the correct technical term) use compounds such as avobenzone, octocrylene or oxybenzone that absorb into the skin and convert UV into heat. They don’t leave a white cast but need 15–30 minutes to become effective.
As Liz explains in How To Age, she has always chosen mineral sunscreens (even when she was formulating for Liz Earle Beauty Co.), both for herself and for her children. More recently, a major 2020 clinical trial found that several common chemical filters (including avobenzone, oxybenzone and octocrylene) can penetrate the skin and linger in the bloodstream at levels that exceeded the FDA’s safety thresholds – even after just one application.
On the other hand, zinc oxide – one of the most commonly used mineral blocks – is considered so safe it’s used as the main healing and protective ingredient in nappy rash cream for newborn babies. “You can’t get a better skin safety endorsement than that,” writes Liz.
Are chemical sunscreens safe?
The authors of the 2020 trial are clear that there’s no need to panic. They note that absorption above the threshold does not mean an ingredient is necessarily unsafe – only that further testing is needed. They stress: “These findings do not indicate that individuals should refrain from the use of sunscreen.”
So, for now, whether you choose a mineral or a ‘chemical’ sunscreen is a personal decision. Many, like Liz, prefer a mineral block that gets to work immediately and is unlikely to be absorbed into the body in significant quantities. Others opt for a more synthetic formula due to the convenience of a more lightweight, invisible texture.
The best SPFs for midlife skin
With all that in mind, here are four SPFs we rate for midlife skin – three mineral, one synthetic chemical – plus a clever extra you can take to support skin defences from the inside out.
Best for: a do-it-all mineral SPF that moisturises as it protects.
A zinc oxide formula that gives broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection with little of the white cast that mineral sunscreens are notorious for. It’s organic, reef-friendly and doubles as a soothing, hydrating day cream, so it earns its keep in a pared-back midlife routine. And because it’s mineral, it’s protecting you from the moment it’s on.
Best for: protecting against and treating the signs of premature ageing in one step.
Also mineral (with 17.5% zinc oxide), but with a clever twist for ageing skin. It’s lightly tinted, which neatly sidesteps any chalky cast. It also carries OneSkin’s OS-01 peptide, developed by a team of four female PhDs to target the ‘senescent’ cells that drive visible ageing. Add vitamin C and green tea antioxidants and you have a moisturiser, an SPF and a treatment in one. An advanced formulation, fragrance-free and made for sensitive skin.
Best for: an invisible, weightless finish with no white cast.
If you prefer the lightweight, invisible texture of a synthetic chemical sunscreen, this is a lovely one. It uses newer-generation broad-spectrum filters, carries the highest possible UVA rating of PA++++, and has an independently tested SPF of nearly 67. It’s fragrance-free, dermatologically approved for sensitive skin, vegan and B Corp certified, with ginseng, apple and peach antioxidants. It feels like a moisturiser and disappears on the skin.
Best for: Water-resistant face and body protection.
When you’re out enjoying a day at the beach or a sweaty hike in the hills, this is a great pick. It packs a very high level of mineral SPF 50 protection (20% zinc oxide and 14% titanium dioxide), yet a clever dry-grip texture means it absorbs quickly with very little white cast. It’s water-resistant for over four hours, reef-safe and ReefTOX tested, with marine algae extract to keep skin hydrated. At 150ml it’s generous enough to be applied to both face and body.
Best for: boosting skin’s natural resilience to UV, from the inside out.
Here’s the clever extra. This Liz-approved collagen supplement is packed with hyaluronic acid and astaxanthin, a powerful antioxidant thatenhances the skin’s natural resilience to UV. When skin meets UV light it generates reactive oxygen species – unstable molecules that damage collagen and accelerate visible ageing. Astaxanthin neutralises these far more effectively than many well-known antioxidants. Studies suggest it’s up to 6000 times more potent than vitamin C, for example.
Think of it as a backup for your SPF and sensible sun protection strategies (such as seeking shade and wearing protective clothing) rather than a replacement.
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