Midlife is often when our skincare starts to feel different – what once worked now seems to stall. Fine lines look deeper, pigmentation can hang around, and dryness creeps in.
So, when it comes to giving our skin some TLC, two ingredients tend to dominate the conversation: retinol, the long-trusted classic, and bakuchiol, the newer kid on the block.
But, how do they differ? And, perhaps more importantly, which one actually deserves a spot in our skincare routine?
What are retinol and bakuchiol – and how do they work?
Retinol and bakuchiol are often talked about as if they do the same thing in our skincare routine, but they work in slightly different ways.
Retinol – a commonly used retinoid – is a form of vitamin A with decades of clinical backing when it comes to anti-ageing skin benefits.
“It’s an ingredient that helps speed up skin renewal, boosts collagen, smooths fine lines and fades pigmentation,” says Ros Simons, co-founder of Curated Beauty and a formulator who has worked with both ingredients.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived, gentler alternative. It doesn’t convert into vitamin A but works in a similar way to refine texture and even skin tone. “Think of retinol as the powerhouse and bakuchiol as the calm, steady companion,” Ros summarises.
Both ingredients support smoother, brighter, more resilient skin, but their personalities differ: one is potent and proven, the other gentler and more forgiving. The right choice depends not just on what you want to achieve, but what your skin can comfortably tolerate.
Retinol vs bakuchiol: which is better for midlife skin?
Retinol – the heavy hitter
A good-quality retinol is considered one of the most powerful tools in an anti-ageing skincare kit. “It works by stimulating skin cells to go through many aspects of repair and rejuvenation,” explains Dr Anatalia Moore, an NHS GP and cosmetic dermatologist.
“It strengthens lax skin, smooths fine lines and reduces wrinkling, achieving over double the improvement – over a much faster time frame – than bakuchiol.”
But all that power comes with a downside. Retinol can cause dryness, redness and sensitivity, particularly in midlife when lower oestrogen levels mean naturally thinner skin and slower cell turnover.
Bakuchiol – the gentler performer
If retinol is the heavyweight champion, bakuchiol is the calmer, steadier contender – offering similar benefits in a much gentler way.
Research shows it can still improve firmness, refine texture and reduce pigmentation. This study, for example, found that bakuchiol contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties, making it a solid addition to a midlife skincare routine.
That said, bakuchiol isn’t a true substitute for retinol. This is because it just isn’t powerful enough to increase cell turnover in the same way. That matters for pigmentation as much as it does for fine lines and wrinkles.
“Their mechanism is the key difference,” Dr Anatalia says. “Retinoids actively influence how melanin is made and deposited whereas bakuchiol primarily aids in brightening by improving skin cell turnover only.”
Choosing between retinol and bakuchiol – and tips for using them safely
In short, retinol has a much bigger influence on how our skin cells function, repair and renew. But bakuchiol wins when it comes to tolerability – and that really matters for skin that is more easily irritated.
One of the most common retinol mistakes? Going too hard, too soon. Start slow: a pea-sized amount, two nights a week. Always pair with a nourishing moisturiser, too.
“Once your skin adjusts, you can increase the frequency,” Ross adds. “A 2% HPR retinoid serum (equivalent to around 0.2% retinoic acid activity) is a great entry point for most midlife complexions.”
If dryness, stinging or flaking persist, give your skin a breather. You might simply need a lower strength or a different format – cream-based formulas are often gentler than gels.
And if retinol still feels like too much? There are other vitamin A-based alternatives, such as retinyl palmitate, that offer milder resurfacing with fewer side effects. Or, of course, there’s bakuchiol: a well-tolerated, midlife-friendly choice that brings many of the same brightening and firming benefits without the irritation.
If you are using retinol, only use it at night. It’s super important to apply SPF in the mornings as well – its potency makes our skin more sensitive to the sun.
Quick-fire tips for choosing a good-quality product
Not all retinol and bakuchiol products are made equal. Here’s a list of tips from the experts on how to choose a good-quality product.
Concentration matters
- Retinol: look for 0.1-0.5% for beginners, or HPR (hydroxy pinacolone retinoate) around 1–2% for a gentler but effective option.
- Bakuchiol: 0.5-1% is where most studies show benefits.
Check the formula type
Creams tend to be more hydrating and better tolerated in midlife skin than gels or serums with high alcohol content. Remember to follow up with a moisturiser regardless.
Packaging counts
Choose opaque, air-tight packaging – vitamin A breaks down quickly when exposed to light and air.
Look for supporting ingredients
Niacinamide, ceramides, hyaluronic acid and squalane help buffer irritation and keep the skin barrier strong.
Choose brands that publish clinical data
Especially for bakuchiol products, where quality varies widely.
In a nutshell
If you want to see results quicker and your skin can tolerate it, retinol is hard to beat. If you’re prone to sensitivity, redness or dryness, bakuchiol offers a gentler route to smoother, brighter skin.
Whichever path you choose, introduce it slowly, keep your routine simple, and observe how your skin reacts. With the right ingredients, our complexions can stay glowing, resilient and well-supported through every stage of midlife (and beyond).
Loved by the Liz Earle Wellbeing team
Skin Diligent CEL™ Retinal Serum
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By Sarah Bakuchiol Booster
This collagen-boosting bakuchiol is a firm favourite of the Liz Earle Wellbeing team. Helps to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, leaving skin looking firmer and more radiant without any irritation. Save 20% with LIZLOVES.
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