Healthy Skin

Which makeup brushes do we really need in our beauty kit?

Professional makeup artist, Naomi Lake, reveals which makeup brushes we need in our beauty kit – and how to get the most out of them.

As a working makeup artist, my kit is perfectly curated. Along with a range of foundations, shadows, lipsticks and more in a rainbow of colours and textures, I always have a handy set of tools my by side, ready to shape, sculpt and define.

When it comes to makeup brushes, I know mine inside out. Some are almost 20 years old, now naturally curved to my hand having reached for them countless times.

How do makeup brushes differ?

The most regular comment on my kit is, “oh wow – all those brushes!”. Indeed, all 347 of my beloved children possess their own special set of skills. The next question is always, “but how do you know what to use them all for?”.

There are a few things I consider with any new brush – and you can tell a lot just by looking at it.

The job a brush is best suited to can depend on the length of its bristles, the packing of the ferrule (the bit of metal between the handle and the bristles), and, of course, its overall shape. And spoiler alert, it’s not always what it says on the side of the brush…

Top tip: Short-handled brushes are great for newbies (or for anyone who uses glasses). They give more control and allow you to get closer to your face without knocking a mirror!

How do I match a brush to its use?

The easiest way to find a brush’s purpose is by its firmness. This will often correlate to the length of the bristles and how fully packed the ferrule is. Firm brushes will take thicker-textured products and tend towards giving fuller coverage. Lighter, more malleable brushes are best to handle thinner-textured products, and will give a sheer look.

For example, if a makeup brush has long bristles in a wide, flat fan shape, with a thin edge, it’ll be good for dusting the finest layer of setting powder, or illuminating the top of the cheekbones with a shimmered powder highlighter.

But, if it’s got a big, domed, rounded end with a bit of density to the packing, it’s likely firmer. These brushes are more useful for gently building a touch of colour with a powder bronzer.

Top tip: Think about the size of the brush and where you’re using it. You wouldn’t use an eyeshadow brush for bronzer, but you might use a fluffy eyeshadow brush to buff out under-eye concealer. Is it a short-haired brush with a fine point or edge? That’s for the details: think brows, lips and liners.

How do I match a brush to the texture of a product?

Always remember, the firmer the feel, the heavier the product it can take. Don’t be scared to test the feel of a brush on the back of your hand before you use it, either.

Never put a liquid product directly onto your brush; instead, put it onto the back of your hand.

This way, you can build up the colour gradually by taking small swipes of product at a time. Buff product into the end of the brush by first swirling the brush onto the back of your hand or your palm. This helps to distribute the product evenly onto the brush.

Top tip: What a brush is made from makes a difference too. Liquid products are best used with synthetic brushes. These won’t absorb water and oils like natural bristle, which, in turn, have added grip to hold onto a powder. Because of this, natural bristles can be easier to use with loose finishing powders or pressed blushers and bronzers.

What can different shaped brushes offer?

Take two brushes, both for foundation, like the flat paddle brush and a stippling brush. With medium-length bristles and a firmish density, a paddle brush is great for liquid or cream products to build fuller coverage.

A stippling brush, meanwhile, has short bristles, a medium-firm density, and a big surface area. You can use its flat face to buff in these products, so it’s great for all skin types. This includes those with acne-prone skin or deep-set pores. Stippling brushes work well with all foundation formulas too, from powder to liquid and cream.

An angled face brush will gently conform to the contours of the face, giving direct colour placement to sculpt features.

A brush with more surface area and rounded edges offers purposefully placed colour while achieving a lovely soft blend. Both are great for blush or bronzer!

Top tip: While brushes can make certain things a little easier when you get used to them (if in doubt, hold any brush as you would a pencil, and you can’t go wrong!), our hands are our first tool. If you’re going brush-free, try a primer with a good slip to help your foundation blend. You can also press a cream blusher onto the cheek with your palms to eliminate streaking from your fingers.